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 Post subject: Still Water Base Sealing
PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 7:50 pm 
Wayfarer
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I have just finished painting up my Watcher in the Water model, and I want to do the base justice to the figure itself.

I have ordered some Vallejo Still Water after searching around for the best products to use, whilst not breaking the budget. I plan on doing some tests with it before unleashing it on the watcher, but need some advice on ways to seal the rim of the base for pouring.

I want to keep it similar to the way GW have done the display model, with everything behind the rocky outcrops being water, right up to the base edge, but am not sure how to create a rim around it for pouring.

I've heard mixed stories about using things like electrical tape, so I wanted to see what your two cents are.

Thanks!

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 Post subject: Re: Still Water Base Sealing
PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 12:13 am 
Elven Warrior
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You could turn the base upside down if you haven't glued it already and fill in the land part with poly/filler/spackle. I haven't used water effects before, but i'd imagine you can just tape some baking paper around the edges, as long as its secure enough, that could work.

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 Post subject: Re: Still Water Base Sealing
PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 3:56 am 
Elven Elder
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I've mostly seen people placing the "land" parts first and letting them settle and then using something akin to the aforementioned paper or tape to prevent spillage over the edge of the base. I'll be doing the same thing for my Watcher but I'm using woodland scenics' realistic water

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 Post subject: Re: Still Water Base Sealing
PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 9:51 am 
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There are some great ideas for water effects on this web site http://www.terragenesis.co.uk/ in the searches box go to the keyword "water" [url][/url] and click on the find icon should keep you ocupied for the rest of the day hope this will help

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 Post subject: Re: Still Water Base Sealing
PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 3:47 pm 
Elven Elder
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Step one. Seal the paint. Double the manufacturer's recommended drying time before you pour the Stillwater. Any trapped gasses or moisture will affect the transparency of the Stillwater. I don't use GW paint. I do not know if the Stillwater will peel it or lift it or affect it in some other strange way. Make sure it is sealed well and absolutely dry.

Step two the dam. I do not have the model to look at. I believe base is round. So the shape of the dam will be the major issue.
I am not going to recommend clay see above.
I am not going to recommend tape. Mostly because of the shape of the dam. I use packing tape all the time for dams. But only if they are square.

Cut a strip of clear plastic the depth that you want to pour the Stillwater. Following the contour of the base temporarily attach the plastic. This will form a clean edge for the water. The Stillwater is thin and will leak. So create a backup for the plastic edge with clear silicon window seal. Clear is important so that you will be able to detect leaks. The window seal will be relatively easily to remove when the project is dry.

Step three. The Stillwater shrinks and you may have to make several pours. You can reduce the capillary effects with a thin border of white glue at the water edge. You might want to do the same thing with the dam edge to reduce the amount of sanding you have to do at the edge.

There is one more thing to consider. The Stillwater will generate some heat. Will it be enough to adversely affect the Find Cast. It will depend on the volume used. All of my experiences with fine cast are bad.I do not have this model. My experience with Stillwater is mixed. There are other products I like better.
If you don't need a deep pour you might consider a few coats of gloss Mod Podge.

I spent a lot of time trying to answer a involved general question. You indicated you were going to experiment with the product first. That is a good plan. I hope my answer helps 8)

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