Anyone have a painting guide for WoMT? Need it for painting tomorrow please.

I'm currently painting a boatload of them. Are you using the old paints or the new?

Try this one.

Or this one.

Chainmail/ LeadBelcher -> Nuln Oil/ Badab Black -> Highlight Runefang Steel.

Thats how I do my armour anyway.

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Mid Sussex Wargamers

I've just painted 50+ of them. I started by spraying them with Army Painter Platemail. I first did the faces (Tallarn Flesh, flesh wash, Tallarn Flesh/ Elf Flesh) then wash of black on the armour. Build up highlights on armour from boltgun metal through to chainmail. Cloth and the black parts of the shields done using Vallejo Negro Black highlighted with increasing amounts of Vallejo Dark Grey. Belts, scabbards, quivers etc with Vallejo Charred Brown (like GW Scorched Brown) highlighted using increasing amounts of Bleached Bone. Wooden weapons based with Snakebite Leather highlighted with Bleached Bone.

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im painting with new citadel/gw colors.

also the base's rim (25mm) have dents from the spar in the packaging. how do u guys smooth it out the xacto knife isnt doing much good. sand paper? what kind?

I usually don't bother about the little divot, it's lost in the sand on the base and the terrain the model is on. But then, my painting skills are table-top quality at best.

GW has some handy cards for painting WoMT with the new colours that are free if you visit a GW shop, and I think would give good results. Mine are similar:

Armour, weapon, and shield:
1. Paint with Leadbelcher or Boltgun Metal
2. Wash with Nuln Oil or Badab Black
3. Drybrush with Runefang Steel or Mithril Silver

Yes, I drybrush the shield, it actually works pretty well. You can lay a detail brush sideways in step 1 to get only the tree design, but in step 3 you just have to have a light touch. It will still make a mess. After the drybrushing I go over the model and repaint the skirt, etc, to black. This includes the shield, where with a detail brush you can pretty easily get black between the tree design branches.

Face: Bugman's Glow base; wash with Riekland Fleshshade; highlight with Cadian Fleshtone and Kislev Flesh. It seems to work fine.

Skirt, gloves, etc:
1. Clean up from drybrushing with black
2. Eshin Grey highlight
3. Codex Grey drybrush
4. Wash with Nuln Oil or Badab Black.

Spear, bow: I used Deneb Stone from the old foundation line of paints

Sword hilt and scabbard decorations: dark bronze highlighted with any brass you like.

Hope that helps...

LOVE IT ALL. thank you all so much for the tips. I just got the paint card from my local GW store

Currently cleaning all the figures with an Xacto knife and putting sand on the bases. I got 320 fine grit and sanded the bases to perfection! No dents or spar marks left.

I got the miniature painting guide (im broke and just got the PDF) by citadel and Im gonna use these tips on laying and feathering on the cloths and details and will post my results later. Looks like the painting guides are outdated with old paint names so ill prob make a new one with all the new color names etc to help anyone else just starting up. I am a professional painter (art school) but never done miniatures before so we'll see how this goes. #fingerscrossed

I'm doing the same thing but in a factory-like manner with spray paints when I have lots of WoMT or KoMT or other similarly armoured models to paint: I undercoat with a good spray primer, then spray silver paint over that (because the silver I use is not a real undercoat and tends to chip if applied directly on the model). Next, I spray the models with Nuln Oil/Badab Black. Finally I drybrush with Runefang Steel and large brush. After this I have only the more interesting details of the miniature to paint. This produces tabletop quality armours in just a few minutes (not counting drying times of course) when you have lots of them to paint.

-- Pasi

Forgot to mention that...

@rammas_echor: model prep is one of the most important things to do, because the best paint job will be ruined if the paint is falling off. Wash your models in hot soapy water and rinse well to remove any factory oils. Ages ago I started with the Mines of Moria kit, didn't wash the goblins, and now they're chipping.
After washing, prime them with a spray primer as valpas said...

I'm not going to get into painting guides, as the other lads have given you some fine ones. I will just say this: WoMT can be boring models to paint, but look great when done well. One thing I've found that helps is putting in some other stuff between large batches. After doing 8-12 Warriors, try some Rangers or another model that isn't 75% silver armour.

I can only speak for myself, but I've learned that sometimes the best thing I can do to get a batch done is step back from it for a couple of days. After that, I'm usually ready to go back with renewed enthusiasm.

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Gondor: 2339pts
Rohan: 1318pts
Dwarves: 2482pts
Elves: 1091pts
Mordor: 2305pts
Isengard: 1762pts
Moria: 1463pts
Evil Men: 381pts

their faces are hard as hell to paint without looking bad. any tips on how to paint eyes well?

because I'm a beginner i got a spare 12 womt on ebay for cheap to practice on until im satisfied but so far no luck, it looks really botched.

I paint their faces before I start the armour so the overlap doesn't occur, but honestly I just ignore the eyes and leave them with the base brown I use so they appear to be in shadow.

Good news as far as test models go: you can apparently soak plastics in undiluted Dettol and the paint will slough off easily. I haven't done it myself, but numerous members here have suggested it to me. I just bought a bottle tonight actually to give it a try. Be careful with it though, as it is poisonous. Make sure you use it in a ventilated space.

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Gondor: 2339pts
Rohan: 1318pts
Dwarves: 2482pts
Elves: 1091pts
Mordor: 2305pts
Isengard: 1762pts
Moria: 1463pts
Evil Men: 381pts

Thanks for the tip, I read Pine Sol does a good job in stripping minis too.

These painting guides for WoMT are great but its like "paint base on face", I need a dumber form of instruction in video form that shows the techniques. -____-

#beginnerproblems

The most important tip for painting eyes is always "not too much white". Even just shading the eyes with dark skin colour looks better than white showing from all over the place. If you have a white eye and a small black dot over it, the model looks like it's frightened or has drunk three pots of coffee recently. Very thin horizontal white line across the eye and a short black vertical line over that looks quite good. White should never be seen both under and over the iris. And with models with helmets you really don't have to paint eyes if you are not going for display quality.

Take a look at Lord Hurin's avatar picture. Even the smaller Théoden's head is a lot bigger than a 28 mm model's head and you can't really see anything else but a dark line where his eyes are.

-- Pasi

I used this guide for my WoMT : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHHXa-TuyVU&feature=plcp
She has a bunch of other guides for lotr miniatures and most of them are pretty easy to follow too

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